In the Garden of Eden

Historic Hudson Valley is a network of six wonderful historic homes in the Hudson Valley. Its mission is to "celebrate the history, architecture, landscape and the material culture of the Hudson Valley", making sure people like me get to see how the other half lived all those years ago.

Last weekend, the Anesthetist decided I was in need of some historical American culture, so he took me to visit Montgomery Place, one of the most important and meticulously preserved historic sites in the US.

Located on the banks of the Hudson river about 1.5 hours north of Manhattan, this property is 380 acres and was the home of the wife General Montgomery who died in some war in the late 1700s. His wife bought the property shortly after his death and it remained in the hands of the same family for almost 200 years. Today, the house is considered an architectural landmark and the totality of the estate a unique American treasure.

The house wasn't open when we went, but the grounds are amazing. There is an orchard, a herb garden, wonderful lush lawns that roll gently down to the Hudson River, ancient oak forests and acres of lovely fields full of the typical oversized trees that are so common on the East coast. It was the perfect place to be on such a hot Sunday.

first glimpse of the house

the herb garden

potting shed

overgrown arbor

one of many fish ponds

a friendly frog

view from the verandah to the Hudson River and beyond

rolling lawns

natural spring

view over the swampy part of the Hudson

image 1: go to hudson

Mural Mural on the Wall

Agrarian Leader, Zapata

For those of you who are interested in the ongoing relationship struggle between Mexico and the US, you must see a wondrous exhibition on at MOMA that focuses on Mexican artist Diego Rivera's murals, including fascinating correspondence between Rivera and Rockefeller Jr about his infamous mural for the Rockefeller Centre.

Rivera never hid his disdain for capitalism or fervent love of the Communist ideal. He and his wife the incredibly beautiful and talented Frida Kahlo, were always leading workers' demonstrations in Mexico and decrying US expansionism in Latin America. And yet the United States, ever the capitalist pinup child despite the Depression, remained fascinated by this ugly mammoth of a man and his art.  Interestingly, MOMA's second-ever exhibition focused on Rivera in 1931/32 and it had the highest attendance of any recorded exhibition until that time.

MOMA brought Rivera to New York 6 weeks before the exhibition and set him up in a massive space to create murals without walls. Rivera produced five "portable murals" depicting Mexican life, class inequality and revolution.  He then added an additional three murals about the Depression-era New York. This is the first time in 80 years that all eight murals have been reunited.

Indian Warrior

The Uprising

Electric Power

Frozen Assets

But the part that interested me the most was the fractured relationship between Rivera and the Rockefeller family. Abby Aldrich Rockefeller was actually one of the founders of MOMA and a pivotal player in getting Rivera to New York in the first place. In 1933, John D. Rockefeller Jr commissioned Rivera to create a mural for his work-in-progress Rockefeller Centre. The story goes that both Matisse and Picasso were both approached about creating a public work of art before Rivera was. Matisse declined and Picasso never replied! 

Rivera did a sketch of what he wanted to create, Man at the Crossroads, which was to depict the social,  political, industrial and scientific possibilities of the twentieth century. But what he painted was very different to the sketch. He decided to include a portrait of Lenin on one side and a martini-swilling Rockefeller partying with a prostitute on the other side. Given this was the era of Prohibition in the US and the cult of Stalin in Russia, The controversy of it all proved too much for the Rockefeller family and one of the strangest patron-artist relationships came to an end.

How the rest of this story played out is showcased in some wonderful letters. There is the very polite request from Nelson Rockefeller to "substitute the face of some unknown man where Lenin's face now appears," whilst still remaining "enthusiastic" about the work Rivera was doing. "The piece is beautifully painted, but it....might very easily seriously offend a great many people."

Even the lawyer's letter is polite, if not to the point. "We cannot but feel that you have taken advantage of the situation to do things that were never contemplated by either of us at the time our contract was made. We feel, therefore, that there should be no hesitation on your part to make such changes as are necessary...."

Of course, history shows us that Rivera refused to comply and ultimately, the mural was removed and destroyed.

Mural covered with canvas, May 1933

Rivera called this "cultural vandalism" and promptly re-created the mural in Mexico city with the funds he had received from the Rockefeller commission.

images: (1-5, 11) moma, (6) this cultural christian, (7) flickr, (8-10) mine taken at moma

"Progress" in Brooklyn

Progress (DEF): Development or growth....steady improvement.

-The Free Dictionary

You may have read my post here about my walkabout in Brooklyn. One of the more memorable areas was 'Admiral's Row,' a line of wonderful if not dilapidated houses that date back to the Civil War. Part of the Brooklyn Navy Yard, they have housed naval families over the centuries but most recently been left to decay due to government wrangles over ownership and conflicting development/preservation plans.

Well, all that has all come to a head now in the name of progress. The site has been handed back to the Navy Yards and approval has been granted for a mega supermarket, industrial space and car park!

Nothing like destroying a piece of history in the name of economics. Apparently one of the houses and the unique Timber Shed are planned for restoration and preservation. The rest of Admiral's Row will eventually be demolished. Let's enjoy glimpses of what were once beautiful architectural gems while we can. More images can be found at this website.

images: (1) mine, (2-3) brownstoner, (4) atlas oscura, (5) admirals row, (6) arch paper, 

You take the High Line and I'll take.....

I'm mad about the High Line. I really think it's changed my life. I know that sounds dramatic, but actually, it has changed alot of people's lives since it opened a year go, thanks to the hard work and ingenuity of a group of community-minded people.

For one thing, it gives you a completely different perspective of lower New York because you are elevated. There's something quite fab about looking down on the grime of the meatpacking district streets, walking alongside buildings as opposed to at the bottom of them and looking over the top of the Hudson to New Jersey.

For another thing, it has given New Yorkers a promenade, something that until now has been reserved for Europeans. The fact that the promenaders here might be more likely to wear sneakers, shorts and ipods rather than elegant long overcoats and Hermes bags is beside the point. It reflects the character of the city's dwellers.

And then there's just the simple fact that the High Line has brought greenery, space and openness to a part of Manhattan that doesn't necessarily offer these things, as well as a brilliant story about how preservation of a city icon can make all the difference.

The High Line runs along the West side of Manhattan from the Meatpacking District to 34th St. It was built in the 1930s to carry freight trains 30 feet in the air and off the streets. 

Parts of it were demolished in the 1960s, the last train ran on the line in 1980 carrying frozen turkeys and it was abandoned and forgotten until recently.

About 10 years ago, the then Mayor Giuliani was going to demolish the rest of it had it not been for a group of locals who formed "Friends of the High Line" and fought to save the tracks. The rest, as they say, is history.

Section 1 has been open for a year. It runs from Gansevoort St to 20th St. Section 2 (20th - 30th st) is slated to open this year. I encourage all of you to make this a destination when you come to New York City. Take a stroll, lie on a sun chaise with a book, or sit and listen to a new sound installation called "A bell for every minute". Artist Stephen Vitello has recorded bells from all over NYC and beyond. They range from the NY Stock Exchange bell to a ferry bell, the UN Peace bell and neighborhood church bells. 

Images: 1-9: mine, 10-14: thehighline.org

Wave Hill

What do you do when it's 33 degrees with 78% humidity in Manhattan? Run for the hills - or the beach. In my case, I ran for the upper Hudson to visit an amazingly underrated National Trust property called Wave Hill.

Situated in the Bronx, right at the end of the number 1 subway line and then a good walk or cab drive, Wave Hill is perched overlooking the Hudson River. It features 28 acres of spectacular gardens including woodland, age-old trees, flower gardens, herb gardens, a conservatory and stunning vistas across the river to the Palisades.

The actual house at Wave Hill was built as a country home by jurist William Lewis Morris in 1843. It went through a succession of owners and hosted guests such as Mark Twain, Arturo Toscanini and Teddy Roosevelt. In 1960 it was deeded to the City of New York. Today, its mission is to "celebrate the artistry and legacy of its gardens and landscapes, to preserve its magnificent views and to explore human connections to the natural world through programs in horticulture, education and the arts."

For the average city dweller, it offers a welcome respite from the melting asphalt and smell of rotting trash. Take a book, your ipod and a blanket, and lie in the shade of a century old oak whilst watching the barges move slowly along the Hudson.

Images: 7: bridge and tunnel club, 1-6, 8-9: mine